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Have you ever thought about how warm your dryer gets? Thermostats and thermal fuses are put in dryers for your protection and if you do not maintain them, you could be putting your self, your property, and your loved ones at risk. Your dryer uses of the mixture of temperature and air-flow to dry your clothes. The warmth produced within your dryer is made by a heating element controlled by a series of thermostats. If many dryers thermostats are faulty, the results could be devastating. Security Warning: Before performing any tests or repairs on-your dryer remove the power supply to eliminate the chance of electric shock. You are able to do this by unplugging the dryer, removing the fuse from the fuse box, or flicking the appropriate switch on the breaker panel. Discover more on investigate appliance repair by browsing our pictorial paper. A dryer thermostat is generally oval-shaped and about an inch and a-half in length. The thermostat includes a bimetal that opens and closes a couple of contacts depending on the temperature inside the dryer. The bimetal within the thermostat is designed to extend at specific conditions. Once the bimetal bends, it pushes an actuator. The actuator then pushes on a contact, opening the electrical circuit and breaking the electrical connection to the element. The bimetal returns to its original condition and the contacts close, allowing the current to flow through the circuit, when the thermostat cools. Heres how it works: The dryer is turned on and heat begins to radiate from the heating element into the dryers drum. The air inside the drum passes with a thermostat. The bimetal bends, cutting the capacity to the heating element, as its maximum temperature is reached by the thermostat. The circuit stays open until the bimetal cools. Since the heating element isnt giving added heat, the dryers temperature gradually falls. The returns to its original shape and the household current passes to begin the heating element again. This process occurs often times throughout your dryers period. You will find at least two thermostats in your dryer: cycling hi-limit safety thermostat and operating thermostat. The difference between these two thermostats is their opening and closing temperatures. The cycling thermostat is typically present in the way of the air leaving the drum. A cycling thermostat is normally located on the fan housing or just under the lint filter place, on the blower wheel housing or within the venting/exhaust system. Some dryers might have up to five thermostats - one for each of the different heat cycles. The temperature setting or routine selected determines which thermostat is used to regulate heat. The thermostat for that one setting might be defective, if your dryer is deteriorating on the low-heat setting. The thermostats for the medium and high temperature choices are not the problem. But, if the dryer is not working properly for most of the heat settings, it is probably an issue along with your port as opposed to the thermostats. Your dryer is protected by the hi-limit thermostat from over-heating. This thermostat is usually found on the heating element, housing, or cage construction. The thermostat cuts power to the heating element, if the airflow in the dryer becomes obstructed by a connected or improperly fitted vent, bad drum seals, or a defective blower. What this means is youll find other difficulties with your dryer. Along with thermostats, dryers use thermal fuses as a safety device. Some dryer designs might have two thermal fuses to find extreme heat. If the hi-limit thermostat fails to reduce power to the heating element and the element gets too warm, the thermal fuse blows and cuts all power to the dryer. This may imply that a thermostat is defective or something is wrong with your ventilation duct, filters, seals, or blower. You can not reset thermal fuses so once they strike they have to be changed. Get the right replacement fuse for the model and replace the hi-limit thermostat as well. Never avoid a thermal fuse. Take a glance at your dryers information for the areas of its thermostats. It is unusual for a dryers thermostat to continue running in a different temperature than originally intended and the only way to test for this would be by examining the temperature of the fatigue. You are able to do this by placing a pocket thermometer in the exhaust vent. This test is done using the dryer operating, so be extremely careful. Examining continuity is yet another solution to test your thermostat. Theres a line resulting in each of the thermostats terminals. The wires are connected by steel slip-on connectors. Browsing To appliance repair probably provides tips you might give to your aunt. Label the wires before you remove them so that you are able to properly reconnect them later. To get rid of the wires use needle-nose pliers to pull on the connectors - dont pull on the wires themselves. In case you wish to dig up further on stove repair, we know about thousands of online resources people might pursue. Set your multimeter to the RX1 location. With the thermostat at room temperature, touch one meter probe to one terminal and touch the other meter probe to the other terminal. You need to get a reading of zero. In case a thermostat is examined when it is heated to its control, a reading of infinity ought to be made. Dig up further on this related portfolio - Click here: appliance repair. Your thermostat should be replaced by you if it fails either of the tests. The thermostat is attached to the dryer with two screws. Remove both screws and discard the faulty thermostat. Put in a new thermostat, acquiring it in place with two screws. Reconcile the 2 wires, put your dryer back together, and restore power-to the dryer. Run your dryer through a cycle to be sure its working precisely. Protect your family and protect yourself - maintain your dryer often. But when you cant do yourself to it, make sure you contact a site technician to complete it for you..